Ceviche with Kumquats and Yuzu Kosho

Let’s talk ceviche! A seemingly intimidating dish, ceviche is actually incredibly easy to prepare at home. Here, we simply marinate chunks of firm white fish and sliced kumquats in a punchy lime-yuzu kosho mixture and finish with lots of bright crunchy vegetables. Unlike most citrus fruit, kumquat skin is entirely (and enjoyably) edible. The skins are sweet while the juice is bracingly sour, which brings balance to the curing liquid. Do yourself a favor and buy the tongue-prickly yuzu kosho required for this recipe, it lasts forever in the fridge and you’ll want to add the piquant elixir to just about everything.

Is ceviche cooked? How long should I marinade it for?

In the simplest of terms, ceviche is fish marinated in acid (usually fruit juice, like lime or lemon). This curing process gently denatures the proteins in the fish, which produces a similar outcome to cooking with heat. This is why the fish in ceviche appears white and opaque after marinating.

Some ceviche recipes will tell you to marinade your fish for an hour or more. While a lengthy marinade will “cook” the fish more, it can also render your fish tough. Personally, I prefer my ceviche very much on the “raw” side, which looks like a 10-15 minute cure. For a great read on the science of ceviche and curing with acid, check out this Serious Eats article.

A note on “sashimi grade”

Because we’re barely cooking the fish here, you want to source the freshest fish possible. While there is absolutely nothing “legal” about the term “sashimi grade,” fishmongers use it to describe fish that is fresh enough to be eaten raw. You don’t need fish labeled “sashimi grade” for this recipe, but you should ask your fish monger if there is any fish suitable for ceviche. Go to a reputable market where you can actually talk to someone behind the counter and definitely don’t buy anything plastic wrapped in a grab and go section. Beyond all else, trust your nose.

Yuzu Kosho: your new favorite condiment

If i had to describe this tongue prickly condiment in one word it would be punchy. The first time I tasted it on it’s own I literally said “WOW.” Made from fermented yuzu zest and either red or green chilies, it’s intensely salty, tangy, and has a wonderful spice that lingers on your lips as you eat. A little goes a long way, and it does a fantastic job cutting through rich grilled meats or bringing brightness to vegetables and seafood (try putting it in a mignonette for oysters). You can find it at your local asian market, specialty store, or online.

I love adding yuzu kosho to ceviche because it infuses your marinade with so much spice and flavor without needing to puree a bunch of herbs and peppers. A small container lasts forever in the fridge, so I always have it on hand.

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